Science
The Science of Sourdough Fermentation: A Plain-English Explanation
What's actually happening when flour, water, and starter combine. Yeast, bacteria, acid, and gas explained.
Short answer: sourdough fermentation is a partnership between wild yeast (which produces gas) and lactic acid bacteria (which produce flavor compounds). Both feed on sugars in flour and create CO2, alcohol, lactic acid, and acetic acid.
The two main microbes
Sourdough culture has:
Wild yeast (Saccharomyces, Candida, others)
- Eats sugars
- Produces CO2 (rise)
- Produces alcohol (ethanol — burns off in baking)
- Smells yeasty
Lactic acid bacteria (LAB)
- Eats sugars
- Produces lactic acid (yogurt-like flavor)
- Produces acetic acid (vinegar-like flavor)
- Smells tangy
Both are present in sourdough at all times, but their balance shifts based on conditions.
What sourdough microbes feed on
Flour contains:
- Starch (long sugar chains)
- Enzymes (amylase) that break starch into sugars
- Maltose (the main sugar yeast/bacteria can use)
- Glucose, fructose (smaller amounts)
Wild yeast prefers maltose. Bacteria prefer glucose. They work in tandem because of these different preferences.
What they produce
The byproducts:
| Compound | Effect | Source |
|---|---|---|
| CO2 | Rise | Yeast |
| Ethanol | Aroma; cooks off | Yeast |
| Lactic acid | Yogurt-like tang | LAB (especially at warm temps) |
| Acetic acid | Vinegar-like sharpness | LAB (especially at cool temps) |
How temperature shifts the balance
| Temperature | Dominant microbe | Flavor result |
|---|---|---|
| 65–70°F | LAB (acetic-leaning) | Sharper, more acidic |
| 75–80°F | Yeast and LAB balanced | Balanced rise and flavor |
| 80–85°F | LAB (lactic-leaning) | Yogurt-like, milder tang |
For "tangy" sourdough: ferment cold and slow. For "mild" sourdough: ferment warm and fast.
How a starter develops
When you start a sourdough from flour and water:
Day 1–3: random microbes from flour and air
- Bacteria that can survive low pH
- Wild yeast spores germinate
- Often initial bloom of unwanted bacteria
Day 3–7: pH drops as LAB produce acid
- Unwanted bacteria die off (can't handle low pH)
- LAB and wild yeast establish dominance
- Activity stabilizes
Day 7–21: stable culture
- Consistent rise
- Reliable timing
- "Mature" starter
Day 30+: complex flavor
- Multiple LAB strains
- Multiple yeast strains
- Distinct character per location
Why every starter is unique
Your starter is a unique microbial community based on:
- The flour you use
- Your kitchen environment
- Your feeding schedule
- The temperature
Two bakers using the same recipe in different kitchens will have different starters with subtly different flavor profiles.
What "feeding" the starter does
Feeding (adding flour and water):
- Provides fresh sugars for microbes
- Dilutes the acidic environment
- Supports microbe reproduction
- Refreshes the culture
A well-fed starter has:
- Active yeast (rises and produces CO2)
- Healthy bacteria (produces flavor)
A starved starter has:
- Hungry, slow yeast
- Stressed bacteria
- Excess acid (no fresh food)
The role of salt
Salt:
- Slows fermentation (mild inhibitor of yeast and bacteria)
- Tightens gluten (provides structure)
- Adds flavor
Without salt: dough ferments too fast, structure is weak. Too much salt (>2.5% of flour): yeast severely inhibited, slow rise.
What happens during bulk
During the 4–6 hour bulk:
- Yeast multiplies
- Gas (CO2) accumulates
- Gluten develops
- Bacteria produce acid
The dough rises 50–60% as gas pockets form within the gluten network.
What happens during shape
Shaping:
- Degasses the dough partially
- Builds surface tension (gluten alignment)
- Doesn't reset fermentation
- Sets up the final proof
After shaping, the dough continues to ferment.
What happens during proof
Final proof (1.5–2 hours):
- Yeast continues producing gas
- Gluten relaxes (allows expansion)
- Surface develops a slight skin
- Dough domes and rises
The dough is ready when:
- It's risen 50%
- Finger-dent springs back slowly
- Smells fermented
What happens in the oven
The oven phase:
Minutes 0–5:
- Yeast becomes very active (gas production accelerates as it warms)
- Steam expands existing gas pockets
- Massive oven spring (initial rise)
Minutes 5–15:
- Yeast dies (above 140°F)
- Crust starts to form
- Crumb sets
Minutes 15–25:
- Maillard reactions create crust color
- Internal temp rises
- Bread becomes golden
Minutes 25–45:
- Internal temp reaches 205°F
- Bread is done
Why sourdough has unique flavor
The combination of:
- Multiple yeast strains
- Multiple bacterial strains
- Acid byproducts (lactic + acetic)
- Long fermentation (vs. yeast bread, which is hours)
Creates flavor compounds (esters, organic acids, aromatic chemicals) that yeast bread doesn't have.
A simplified mental model
Think of sourdough as:
- A garden of microbes
- That you feed and water
- That produce gas (rise) and flavor (acid)
- And bake into bread
The microbes do the work. You provide the conditions.
A scientific deep-dive (optional)
If you want to go deeper:
- Read "The Bread Builders" by Daniel Wing
- Read "Tartine Bread" by Chad Robertson (less science, more art)
- Search "sourdough microbiome" on Google Scholar
The science is fascinating but not required for great bread.
A final note
You don't need to understand the microbiology to bake great sourdough.
But understanding helps when:
- Things go wrong (you know what to adjust)
- You want to manipulate flavor (cold vs warm)
- You want to maintain a healthy starter
The science is the foundation; the art is the practice.